Deadwood, South Dakota: “No Law at All” for the Outlaws

“No law at all in Deadwood? Is it true?” According to the HBO television series, Deadwood, this was the state of the infamous town, east of the Mississippi. Set in the late 1870s, this gold mining town of the American West was known for its whiskey, women and western wranglers. This popular show, airing in 2004, fascinated me with its depiction of the Gold Rush and life in a western town. While gun fights and debauchery brought noteriety to Deadwood, Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane would serve as its main characters.

The US gave this land to the Lakota Indians, by means of the 1851 Treaty of Laramie in an effort to resolve disputes between the Indian tribes and the US Government. Once it was discovered that gold was in the hills of the Great Sioux Reservation, prospectors invaded the land ignoring the terms of the agreement. This resulted in war between the Sioux Indians and the settlers in 1866 and a major conflict continued between the two.

Deadwood continued to grow as a prospectors camp and was eventually established as a city in 1876. A city that once thrived on prostitution, gambling and the excessive consumption of alcohol, Deadwood’s popularity as a tourist stop was based on its preservation of historical buildings as well as its colorful past.

With the lack of law enforcement, Deadwood was known for its high rate of crime, including homicide. Its most notorious murder is that of Wild Bill Hickok by Jack “Crooked Nose” McCall, living under the alias of Bill Sutherland.

The story begins with Hickok playing a game of poker in the Nuttal & Mann’s Saloon (today’s Saloon Number 10) when McCall, who had lost a fair amount of money to Hickok the night before, shot Hickok from behind. It was said that Hickok was holding a pair of black aces and eights, which has become to be known as the Dead Man’s hand.

Saloon Number 10 displays the chair where Wild Bill Hickok was shot as well as other historical memorabilia.

McCall attempted to escape the law, but was apprehended, He was later sentenced to death in a second trial. At the age of 24 years old, he was hanged on March 1, 1877. Today, the Masonic Temple in Deadwood hosts reenactments of the Trial of Jack McCall during the summer months.

After spending the night at Comfort Inn Gulches of Fun, I awoke early in the morning with one last stop at the Mount Moriah Cemetery. Located on the outskirts of the historical downtown, the burial ground maintains the grave sites of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane. Known as Hickok’s girlfriend, Martha Jane Burke, was an outlaw in her own right. Their resting place is a short uphill walk from the cemetery’s entrance.

A further jaunt towards the edge of the cemetery is a stunning scenic view of the city of Deadwood. According to Loretta, the friendly historian at the Welcome Center, Deadwood is very much the same as it was in the 1880s. She also mentioned that the series Deadwood is very true to its historical portrayal of the city as it was during the time of the Gold Rush. A once thriving city with upwards to around 5,000 residents, today it is a quiet, somewhat laid-back town, quite different to its former reputation. That is, until the shootout reinactments begin and you’re taken back to the Deadwood of Wild Bill Hickok.

Have you visited Deadwood or other Wild West sites? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below! Many thanks for reading my post about Deadwood and I wish you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Mount Moriah Cemetery
10 Mt. Moriah Drive
Deadwood, SD 57732
Telephone: 605 722 0837

Admission Fee: There is a $2 admission fee for Mt. Moriah Cemetery
Hours: Open daily from 8AM to 6PM
Amenities: The park provides a map that identifies the celebrity graves and other significant locations.
Scenic View: Towards the back of the cemetery is an amazing view of the downtown of Deadwood.
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Wear proper footwear for walking. The cemetery is a sacred place and should be treated with respect.

The Trial of Jack McCall
Telephone: 800 344 8826

Saloon No. 10
657 Main Street
Deadwood, SD 57732
Telephone: 800 952 9398

Admission Fee: There is no fee to enter the saloon.
Hours: Open daily from 8AM to 2AM
Amenities: Historical site, restaurant, bar, gambling, entertainment and souvenir shop
Scenic View: See the location where Wild Bill Hickok was killed by Jack McCall and scan the walls for western memorabilia.
Length of Visit: 1 hour or more depending on if you want to play blackjack and the slots
Tips for Your Visit: When visiting Deadwood, a stop at Saloon Number 10 is a must! Be prepared for a wild enactment of the shooting of Wild Bill Hickok. Cigar smoking is permitted in the bar, so there are times when this may deter non-smokers.

Where to Stay:

Comfort Inn Gulches of Fun
225 Cliff Street
Deadwood, SD 57732
Telephone: 605 578 7550

Where to Eat:

Gem Steakhouse & Saloon at The Mineral Palace
601 Main Street
Deadwood, SD 57732
Telephone: 605 578 2036

It had been awhile since I had seen Buffalo on a menu so I ordered the Buffalo Salisbury which included a 12-ounce ground Buffalo patty served with mushroom gravy and mashed potatoes.

Deadwood Social Club Restaurant at Saloon No. 10
657 Main Street
Deadwood, SD 57732
Telephone: 800 952 9398

I decided to dine here before leaving Deadwood continuing my trek out west. It was a beautiful evening to enjoy the rooftop patio with its twinkling lights strung about against the growing darkness of dusk. I ordered the 8 oz. Filet Mignon, medium rare with a Crab Hollandaise topping. The other option which I really wanted to try was the Crab & Pork Belly Carbonara which included the crispy pork belly, snow crab, peas, red bell peppers, fettuccine in a rich cream sauce. The prices were exceptionally reasonable and the flavors of my steak and crab topping was extraordinary.

What to Eat: