Salem, Massachusetts: A City Bewitched – the suite life of travel

My visit to Salem took me back to high school when we studied the Salem Witch Trials in American History class. I remembered the terrifying stories about how a group of young women were accused of dabbling in witchcraft and later sentenced to death. What started out as a night of fortune telling ended up in the execution of twenty innocent lives. I imagined the fear that must have spread through the community and the mounting distrust among friends and family.

The accusations and devastating deaths during these trials continue to have a large influence in the city of Salem, Massachusetts. Several locations commemorate the events that draw curious visitors to Salem each year, especially during the Halloween holiday.

A number of museums document the historical aspect of the Witch Trials of 1692. Locals agree that these events are much more down-played today than twenty to thirty years ago when the trials were more prominent here.

The city’s identity is strongly reflected in the history of the witch trials. Neighborhoods have names such as Witchcraft Heights where the school mascot is the Witch and police cruisers even display the symbol of the witch on a broom on the side of their vehicles. During the Halloween season, Salem’s influx of visitors nearly doubles when witches and warlocks gather together in celebration of Hallow’s Eve.

Despite all of the superstition and witchcraft, I found Salem to be a city with so much more to offer than its past. In addition to its beautiful harbors and parks, the city is home to some of the finest restaurants in the state and quite a few landmarks that are worth a visit.

My friend, Dave and I were visiting his uncle during our trip to Salem, Massachusetts and since he grew up in Boston, he knew the area quite well. We started out in the early morning at Salem Willows Park.

Dave had visited here with his middle school class and vividly remembered the witch displays that had been set up close to the harbor. He was surprised that the historical events of the witch trials which once took center stage in Salem, seemed to be more down-played than when he was growing up in Chelsea.

Opening in the 1880’s, Salem Willows was a popular recreational area for the locals with a pavilion, an arcade and a number of businesses that lined up along its perimeter. There were several restaurants and entertainment venues that included a pool hall, bowling alley, and a shooting gallery.

The park is named for its beautiful white willow trees that were planted here in 1801. I imagined that they would provide perfect shade in the hot summer sun and a lovely location for a picnic.

By the 1920’s the Charleshurst Ballroom sponsored big band headliners such as Count Basie and Louis Armstrong. Entertainment continued in the ballroom over the next 20 years and amusement park rides were added to amuse the children.

During our visit, we learned that the Salem Willows had its own signature sandwich, the Salem Willows Chop Suey Sandwich. Made popular in the 1930’s, it can still be found today at nearby Salem Lowe Restaurant. Chop suey is a meat, such as beef, chicken, pork or seafood combined with vegetables to include cabbage, bean sprouts, and celery. Thickened with starch, the meat and vegetables are put on a bun making this the infamous Salem Willows Chop Suey Sandwich.

We completed our visit to Salem Willows. walking along the harbor. Passing the Clam Shack, we enjoyed the smell of the Atlantic Ocean and feeling the cool breeze of the autumn air.

With the whole day ahead of us to explore, we took the five minute drive from Salem Willows Park to the House of the Seven Gables. Salem native Nathaniel Hawthorne wrote about this family home which was owned by his cousin Susannah Ingersoll, who had lived here during the Salem Witch Trials of 1692.

The guided tour provided a lovely historical account of the home as it was owned by three generations of Turners and later the Ingersoll family. The guide also offered information about the 20^th century restoration and how the new features corresponded with the home in Hawthorne’s book.

We enjoyed strolling the property’s gardens and learning about the Counting House where spices from the West Indies were imported to the United States’ eastern seaboard.

Leaving Salem and driving back to Boston, I noticed the Bewitched statue out of the corner of my eye and tried to take a quick photo. Dave explained that the television show was filmed here in Salem on several occasions during one of its later seasons.

I began to think about how the time difference has changed so much to what Americans will find acceptable or even tolerate today. While 300 years ago even the mention of witchcraft was once punishable by death, it has become accepted and even celebrated in society today. Salem makes no excuses for what happened during the city’s witch hunt, but it is quite clear that it has thoughtfully paid tribute to the innocent victims and has made peace to the wrongfully accused. For a town with a name that comes from the Hebrew word shalom meaning peace, Salem has come a long way.

Have you had the opportunity to visit Salem? I would love for you to share your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below! Many thanks for reading my post about Salem and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Salem Willows Park
167 Fort Avenue
Salem, MA 01970
Telephone: 978 741 4600

Admission: Free
Hours: Memorial Day to Labor Day 10AM to 11PM

The House of the Seven Gables
115 Derby Street
Salem, MA 01970
Telephone: 978 744 0991

Admission: Adults $12.50, Students (5 – 12) $7.50, Seniors $11.50
Hours: 10AM to 5PM

Where to Stay:

The Hotel Marblehead
264 Pleasant Street
Marblehead, MA 01945
Telephone: 781 639 9999

Where to Eat:

Clam Shack
98 Restaurant Row
Salem, MA 01970
Telephone: 978 741 2526

I was dying to try a lobster roll but knew I had to have something with clams, so I ordered the clam chowder which was spectacular and you can’t beat the price of seafood in the northeast!

“Where witches fly and clams fry”

Salem Lowe Restaurant
197 Fort Avenue
Salem, MA 01970

Order the locally famous Salem Willows Chop Suey Sandwich

What to Eat: